Ancho Chile

Ancho chiles are dried poblano peppers, wide and heart-shaped with deeply wrinkled, brick-to-mahogany-colored skin. Drying concentrates the poblano's mild flavor into something sweeter and more complex: notes of raisin, prune, dried plum, and a faint smokiness, with mild heat (about 1,000 to 2,000 Scoville units, roughly on par with a poblano). Anchos are one of the three chiles that make up the classic "holy trinity" of Mexican mole sauces, alongside mulato and pasilla, and they're also the backbone of most commercial chili powder blends.

Varieties

Ancho, mulato, and pasilla are often grouped together but come from different peppers: ancho is dried poblano, mulato is a darker, sweeter poblano variety, and pasilla is dried chilaca. Fresh poblano peppers are not a substitute for ancho in recipes that call for the concentrated, dried flavor, since drying is what develops the raisin-like sweetness and deeper color.

Buying tips

Choose chiles that are pliable and slightly leathery rather than brittle or dusty; a chile that cracks when bent has likely dried out and lost flavor. Look for deep reddish-brown to mahogany color; chiles that look gray, faded, or have a dull, flat sheen are old. A faint fruity smell at the stem end is a good sign of freshness.

Substitutes

• Mulato chile — 1:1

  A close relative used in the same mole trinity; slightly darker and sweeter with chocolate and tobacco notes instead of ancho's raisin-forward flavor.

• Pasilla chile — 1:1

  Longer and thinner, with a more herbal, slightly bitter, raisin-like flavor and similar mild heat; a good swap in mole or braises.

• Guajillo chile — 1:1

  Brighter, tangier, and a bit hotter than ancho, with berry-like fruitiness instead of sweetness; works well blended half-and-half with ancho if used alone.

• Dried chipotle (morita or meco) — 1/2 chile per 1 ancho chile

  Much smokier and noticeably hotter, so use less than the ancho called for and taste as you build the sauce.

• Ancho chile powder (pure, not blended chili powder) — 1 tablespoon powder per 1 whole dried chile

  Convenient for quick sauces or rubs but lacks the body and gelatinous texture whole rehydrated chiles add to blended sauces.

Storage

Keep whole dried ancho chiles in an airtight container or resealable bag in a cool, dark pantry away from light and moisture; they'll keep their flavor well for up to a year. For longer storage, or in humid climates, freeze them in a sealed bag, which prevents the natural oils from turning rancid.

How to use

Wipe off any dust, then toast whole or torn chiles in a dry skillet over medium heat for 20 to 30 seconds per side until fragrant and pliable, not blackened. Remove the stems, slit them open, and shake out the seeds and veins, which taste bitter and add unwanted heat. Soak the toasted chiles in hot (not boiling) water for 15 to 20 minutes until fully softened, then blend with the soaking liquid, aromatics, and other chiles into sauces, moles, adobos, and marinades. Ancho chiles are also ground into powder for rubs, chili, and enchilada sauce.

What it pairs with

Ancho chiles pair naturally with chocolate, cinnamon, cumin, and toasted sesame or pumpkin seeds in mole, and with garlic, tomato, and vinegar in adobo. They complement pork, beef, and hominy in chili and posole, and their sweetness balances well against the acidity of tomatillos or citrus.

Nutrition

Dried chiles are calorie-light and used in small amounts, but they're a notably concentrated source of vitamin A (from beta-carotene) and provide some iron and vitamin C, along with capsaicin, which is mildly present given ancho's moderate heat.

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